On card weaving
Feb. 25th, 2008 10:44 amSo a recent post mentioned that I had started tablet weaving. An update:
My first project was an 80-card sash for my grandfather, using a pattern I created to emulate the "Vigil" sash for the Order of the Arrow, Scouting's National Honor Society (picture here. As you can see, the sash is normally machine-stitched.) In this first project, I made several errors. The first was my assumption that the typical ratio for card weaving designs was 3-to-1. In practice, my ratio was more like 6-to-1, stretching my design in a way I was not entirely happy with. Secondly, I arranged the cards alternating in opposite directions (or, for those who know the lingo, an S-Z pattern). While this made the cards easy to turn, it gave a texture to the band that didn't lend itself well to the design, and made it bulkier than I intended. Thirdly, I calculated the length of the sash as 8' long, rather than 6'. By the time I'd gotten 1/4 of the way through the sash, I realized my errors in one fell swoop, and removed the design from the loom.
I've since restrung with all the cards going the same direction, with an improved, 60-card design and recalculated lengths. Pictures will follow soon.
My first project was an 80-card sash for my grandfather, using a pattern I created to emulate the "Vigil" sash for the Order of the Arrow, Scouting's National Honor Society (picture here. As you can see, the sash is normally machine-stitched.) In this first project, I made several errors. The first was my assumption that the typical ratio for card weaving designs was 3-to-1. In practice, my ratio was more like 6-to-1, stretching my design in a way I was not entirely happy with. Secondly, I arranged the cards alternating in opposite directions (or, for those who know the lingo, an S-Z pattern). While this made the cards easy to turn, it gave a texture to the band that didn't lend itself well to the design, and made it bulkier than I intended. Thirdly, I calculated the length of the sash as 8' long, rather than 6'. By the time I'd gotten 1/4 of the way through the sash, I realized my errors in one fell swoop, and removed the design from the loom.
I've since restrung with all the cards going the same direction, with an improved, 60-card design and recalculated lengths. Pictures will follow soon.
no subject
Date: 2008-02-25 07:18 pm (UTC)I suspect that your warp tension was pretty tight as well. Easing that just a smidge could help you beat the picks harder.
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Date: 2008-02-25 07:35 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-02-25 07:19 pm (UTC)Luckily, this is easy to fix, and if they're solid colored already, you won't even notice if you fix them.
If you have set up your edges to be 'all forward', be sure to reverse them periodically, or you will get major twist build up on your loom, and this can cause problems, as well.
Have fun with the insanity :)
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Date: 2008-02-25 07:30 pm (UTC)Huh?
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Date: 2008-02-25 07:59 pm (UTC)Now, if you do NOT have solid colored selvages, this can make an interesting design element, whereas if they're one color, you don't notice that they're not threaded in the same direction. However, you'll see the weft thread as little 'bumps' on the edge, too.
Thoroughly confused yet?
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Date: 2008-02-25 08:09 pm (UTC)My edge cards have the same two colors as the rest of the warp, and I'm 6 inches into my solid-colored lead. If I flip cards 2 and 59, so that they're Z cards, perhaps when the cards aren't in home position, and keep going as per normal, will this take care of the issue and keep my whites white and my brights bright?
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Date: 2008-02-26 12:22 am (UTC)I've had a bit of trouble with twisting when I didn't use have a twined selvage border. It was suggested to use the selvage striped edging, and it solved the problem, along with making a very nice edging on the weaving.
But if it's working for you - go for it :)
no subject
Date: 2008-02-25 08:09 pm (UTC)Were this band being done in a technique that involved significant twining of the threads, that would be a valid concern. With double-turn double-face (3/1 repp), that just doesn't happen.
I have a piece that is woven in 20/2 silk, 77 cards, all S threaded. There is no perceptable twist in it. Not in the 3/1 twill sections. Not in the 3/1 repp sections (that are plain ground).
no subject
Date: 2008-02-25 08:10 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-02-25 08:11 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2008-02-25 08:06 pm (UTC)Double-turn double-face (the technique in question) doesn't twist up.
In my experience, twined edges are not essential for 3/1 repp or 3/1 twill. I've done a bit of 3/1 twill and had no problems omitting the twined edges. In fact, my piece de resistance reproduces figures from the Arlon band, whose twined edges were woven separately and sewn on later, so far as I can tell.
That also is my wife's experience. As bona fides, I offer up the face that she has woven "a couple of miles" of 3/1 repp bands over the years, without using twined edges. Even in 5/2 cotton, the edge floats do not create a problem.
Setting up a warp for 3/1 *mumble* is easy. Continuous warps are your friend. Adding monochrome twined edges is extra work. It also gives you an edge that has a different texture from the main piece. That is neither a Good Thing nor a Bad Thing, but it is something to keep in mind.
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Date: 2008-02-26 12:25 am (UTC)And 3/1 CAN be easy ... or it can be one of the most frustrating things on the planet :) Of course, I have 2 children under 5 - so threading anything can be quite the challenge. :)
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Date: 2008-02-25 07:41 pm (UTC)You should totally post pics on craftster. And I'm not just pimping that site out because I just finally joined.
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Date: 2008-02-25 07:44 pm (UTC)Inordinatly complex
Date: 2008-02-27 04:23 pm (UTC)-Daniel