On card weaving
Feb. 25th, 2008 10:44 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
cormacSo a recent post mentioned that I had started tablet weaving. An update:
My first project was an 80-card sash for my grandfather, using a pattern I created to emulate the "Vigil" sash for the Order of the Arrow, Scouting's National Honor Society (picture here. As you can see, the sash is normally machine-stitched.) In this first project, I made several errors. The first was my assumption that the typical ratio for card weaving designs was 3-to-1. In practice, my ratio was more like 6-to-1, stretching my design in a way I was not entirely happy with. Secondly, I arranged the cards alternating in opposite directions (or, for those who know the lingo, an S-Z pattern). While this made the cards easy to turn, it gave a texture to the band that didn't lend itself well to the design, and made it bulkier than I intended. Thirdly, I calculated the length of the sash as 8' long, rather than 6'. By the time I'd gotten 1/4 of the way through the sash, I realized my errors in one fell swoop, and removed the design from the loom.
I've since restrung with all the cards going the same direction, with an improved, 60-card design and recalculated lengths. Pictures will follow soon.
My first project was an 80-card sash for my grandfather, using a pattern I created to emulate the "Vigil" sash for the Order of the Arrow, Scouting's National Honor Society (picture here. As you can see, the sash is normally machine-stitched.) In this first project, I made several errors. The first was my assumption that the typical ratio for card weaving designs was 3-to-1. In practice, my ratio was more like 6-to-1, stretching my design in a way I was not entirely happy with. Secondly, I arranged the cards alternating in opposite directions (or, for those who know the lingo, an S-Z pattern). While this made the cards easy to turn, it gave a texture to the band that didn't lend itself well to the design, and made it bulkier than I intended. Thirdly, I calculated the length of the sash as 8' long, rather than 6'. By the time I'd gotten 1/4 of the way through the sash, I realized my errors in one fell swoop, and removed the design from the loom.
I've since restrung with all the cards going the same direction, with an improved, 60-card design and recalculated lengths. Pictures will follow soon.
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no subject
Date: 2008-02-25 08:06 pm (UTC)Double-turn double-face (the technique in question) doesn't twist up.
In my experience, twined edges are not essential for 3/1 repp or 3/1 twill. I've done a bit of 3/1 twill and had no problems omitting the twined edges. In fact, my piece de resistance reproduces figures from the Arlon band, whose twined edges were woven separately and sewn on later, so far as I can tell.
That also is my wife's experience. As bona fides, I offer up the face that she has woven "a couple of miles" of 3/1 repp bands over the years, without using twined edges. Even in 5/2 cotton, the edge floats do not create a problem.
Setting up a warp for 3/1 *mumble* is easy. Continuous warps are your friend. Adding monochrome twined edges is extra work. It also gives you an edge that has a different texture from the main piece. That is neither a Good Thing nor a Bad Thing, but it is something to keep in mind.
no subject
Date: 2008-02-26 12:25 am (UTC)And 3/1 CAN be easy ... or it can be one of the most frustrating things on the planet :) Of course, I have 2 children under 5 - so threading anything can be quite the challenge. :)